BUDMASTERGROW
Home/Compatible/Fan setup

Fans: two wires, no soldering

Choosing an extraction fan and wiring it to BudMaster. Get the size right first, then connect it — almost any EC or inline fan takes just two wires and no soldering.

Buyer's guide Size the airflow first

Before you think about wiring, get the size right. The extraction fan is the lungs of your grow space — it pulls out heat and humidity, draws in fresh CO₂, and (through a carbon filter) keeps odour in check. Too little airflow and the space runs hot, damp and stale; too much wastes energy and dries everything out. The aim is the right fan, run at the right speed.

Heat & humidity
Pulls out warm, damp air so temperature and humidity (VPD) stay in the sweet spot.
Fresh air & CO₂
Swaps stale air for fresh, keeping CO₂ topped up for healthy growth.
Odour control
Draws air through a carbon filter so nothing leaves the room.
Healthy plants
Stops damp pockets, mould and weak, stretchy growth.

How to size your fan

Airflow needed = your whole space, swapped every 1–3 minutes.
m³/h ≈ length × width × height (m) × 60 ÷ minutes  ·  or CFM ≈ cubic feet ÷ minutes.

Then size up. A carbon filter, long ducting, bends and a silencer can rob 25–50% of a fan's rated airflow, so pick one rated comfortably above your bare figure and dial it back. An EC fan loafing at 40–60% is quieter and more efficient than a small fan flat out — and leaves headroom for hot weather. Match the duct size to your filter.

Grow space (approx)Duct sizeFan airflow ballpark*
Up to ~0.6 × 0.6 m4" (100 mm)~180–200 m³/h · 105–120 CFM
~1.0 × 1.0 m5–6" (125–150 mm)~350–450 m³/h · 200–265 CFM
~1.2 × 1.2 m6" (150 mm)~450–550 m³/h · 265–325 CFM
~1.5 × 1.5 m or multiple spaces8" (200 mm)~700+ m³/h · 410+ CFM

*Rated airflow before filter and ducting losses — size up, then dial down. Heights assumed ~2 m; taller spaces need more.

Why variable speed matters: BudMaster runs the fan at the exact speed conditions call for — ramping with temperature and humidity rather than blasting on and off. Quieter, steadier, and one well-chosen fan covers a wide range. Once you've picked the right fan, wiring it is just two wires — here's how.
The rule of thumb

If your fan has a standard speed input — a 3.5 mm jack, a 0–10 V terminal, or a thin control lead — it connects to BudMaster with two wires and no solder. The only fans you can't speed-control are the ones locked to their maker's own box.

Channel terminal
Small 12 V DC and PC fans. BudMaster powers and speed-controls them — leads clamp straight in.
0–10 V port (RJ12)
Fans with their own power and a 0–10 V or PWM speed input. Connect via a plug-in lead.
RPM input (optional)
Reads the fan's speed back, if it has the wire. Nice to have, never required.

Inline & duct extraction fans Two wires · no solder

Fans fall into four groups by how they connect. The first three are fully plug-and-play.

Side cutaway of a mixed-flow inline EC fan and its control board A mixed-flow inline duct fan in side view with narrow duct collars, a wide motor bulge, a screw-down access panel and a mounting foot. The external-rotor motor and impeller sit inside. A magnified view shows the control board under the access panel with a BLDC driver IC, a six-MOSFET three-phase bridge, a DC capacitor and connectors. A key shows speed and ground wire to BudMaster, plus ten volts is left unconnected and tacho is optional. EC inline fan — under the access panel airflow access panel Impeller + external-rotor motor mixed-flow inline fan Control board — under the panel DC cap BLDC driver IC 6× MOSFET — 3-phase bridge speed in The speed-control lead — wire by wire Speed signal 0–10 V or PWM Connect to hub Ground 0 V reference Connect to hub +10 V out reference — skip Leave unconnected RPM / tach speed read-back Optional
Lift the access panel and you reach the control board — only the speed and ground wires go to BudMaster. No soldering.

① Plug-in jack — a 3.5 mm lead

Brand / modelConnectsNotes
TerraBloom EC range (6" / 8" / 10", ECMF)JackSpeed control on a 3.5 mm audio port (0–10 V / PWM). The fan keeps its own power lead.
DucTurbo EC fansJackSame 3.5 mm jack approach — widely documented by the DIY community.
How: plug a 3.5 mm lead into the BudMaster 0–10 V port. Nothing to strip, nothing to solder.

② 0–10 V terminal — strip and clamp

Brand / modelConnectsNotes
Systemair K / KV EC seriesTerminalExternal 0–10 V input on a terminal block. The grow-trade "Revolution" line is the same fan.
Fantech prioAIR ECTerminalBuilt-in 0–10 V control. BudMaster sets the speed.
Most commercial 0–10 V EC inline fansTerminalThe HVAC standard. If it takes a 0–10 V building-management signal, it takes BudMaster.
How: strip the BudMaster 0–10 V lead and clamp it into the fan's 0–10 V and ground terminals. Screwdriver only.

③ Flying-lead DC — straight into a terminal

Fan typeConnectsNotes
Small 12 V DC inline fans (4")ChannelTwo wires into a channel terminal — BudMaster powers and controls it, full 0–100%.
PC case fans (120 / 140 mm, 4-pin)Channel4-pin to bare-wire adapter (no solder), into a channel. Many run off one channel.
Larger DC EC fans (24 / 48 V, with a speed pigtail)0–10 VFan on its own power supply; the speed lead goes into the BudMaster 0–10 V port.
The BudMaster fan (coming)Plug-inA matched fan with a pre-made lead — true plug-and-play.
How: small 12 V fans clamp straight into a channel terminal. Larger fans keep their own supply and take only the low-voltage speed signal.

④ AC Infinity — advanced (adapter needed)

Brand / modelConnectsNotes
AC Infinity Cloudline (EC)AdapterUses a proprietary "UIS" connector (a USB-C variant) and is built for AC Infinity's own controllers. It can be driven by BudMaster with an adapter, but it's an advanced, unofficial route that may affect warranty. (The EC motor has a 7-wire internal connector; the cheaper plain-DC model has 4.)
Fans locked to a "smart bus" with no 0–10 V/PWM inputOn/offNo standard speed input to tap. Switch on/off via a smart plug instead.

How to connect Five steps

1

Find the speed control

Look for a 3.5 mm socket, a pair of 0–10 V terminals, or a thin control lead that's separate from the power lead. That's the speed input. (A fan with only a mains plug and no speed input can be switched on/off via a smart plug, but not dimmed.)

2

Match a BudMaster connection

A 3.5 mm lead into the 0–10 V port, a 0–10 V lead clamped into the fan's terminals, or — for a small DC fan — its leads straight into a channel terminal.

3

Connect two wires

It's always the same two: the speed signal and the ground. Signal to signal, ground to ground. An optional third wire reads the fan's RPM back.

4

Set it up in the app

Set the channel's role to Fan and run the speed from 0% to 100% to check it responds the right way. If the fan runs backwards — full speed when you ask for off — turn on Invert for that channel.

5

Done

Set a target, a schedule, or link the fan to temperature and humidity. It now ramps automatically.

Do & don't Keep it simple and safe

Do
  • Keep large fans on their own power supply — BudMaster sets the speed, the fan keeps its power.
  • Use a fan's jack or terminal where it has one — no cutting, no soldering.
  • Check the fan runs the right way and flip Invert if it idles high.
Don't
  • Wire mains power into BudMaster or into a fan's control input — control signals are low-voltage only.
  • Connect a fan's "+10 V" reference wire into a BudMaster input — you only need the signal and the ground.
  • Cut the loom on a fan that's under warranty — use the plug-in route instead.
Got a fan that isn't listed?

Email hi@budmastergrow.com with the make and model and we'll tell you honestly how it connects. If it has a standard 0–10 V or PWM speed input, it's almost certainly two wires and no solder.

Brand and product names are listed for compatibility guidance only. BudMaster is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by these manufacturers, and all trademarks belong to their respective owners. Always check your fan's own manual before wiring. Modifying a third-party product may affect its warranty.